Waves

Waves get their energy from the wind. As the wind blows over the surface of the sea, it creates friction. This frictional drag causes water particles to rotate and their energy is transferred forward in the form of a wave. Whilst the water moves forward, the water particles return to their original position.

As a wave reaches shallow water, friction between the sea bed and the bottom of the wave causes it to slow down. Its shape becomes more eliptical (rather than circular). The top of the wave is not affected by the friction, and it becomes steeper until it eventually breaks.

When the wave breaks, water rushes up the beach. This is called the swash.

The movement of water back down the beach is called the backwash.

There are three main factors that affect the strength of a wave:

1. The strength and speed of the wind.
2. The duration of the wind - this is the length of time for which the wind has blown.
3. The fetch - this is the distance over which the wind has blown.

The Wave Machine Simulator helps you to see the impact of these three variables.